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Question of the Week

Question for the week of May 8, 2000:

Our question this week comes from kl.max

I have just started my first paper piecing project - what are your most valuable tips? My first problem: Some of the stitches pull out when I try to remove the paper backing.

Vivienne in UK :
I have done a single bed quilt using the paper piecing process but have used nappy liners to sew onto.
The sort I use are bio-degradable and feel a bit like flimsy inter-facing. The come on a roll and each is about 8 x 12 inches. It is very easy to rip them off at the end, not much gets left behind at all.


Sharon :
Use a size 90 needle and small stitches.
Also, sewing on the line, folding back the paper on a postcard and cutting the 1/4" seam allowance weakens the paper.
cathinke van dijk :
allways use a small stich when you are paper piecing. (1,5 or even 1 )
thin paper will tear away easier and fasten the process off tearing.
jodi in montana :
you must use a large needle to perforate the paper foundation also I use the back side of my seam ripper to "score" along the stitching line and then tear carefully away. Good luck and when you get the hang of it you will love it.
Laurie Smith :
I tear the paper towards the middle of a seam and "out" towards the end of the seam whenever possible. Then you are not putting stress on the ending stitches of the seam.

Also, I work from the outside, in. That way, center pieces just come out or can be lifted out with the point of a seam ripper.


tonie in vegas :
Use a large needle when sewing to perferate the paper and smaller stitchs than you normally would. Bend the paper or score with your fingernail or a seam ripper. Should tear easier then.
Marguerite Blodgett :
I tighten up my tension slightly since the paper does take up some space. Also shorten up your stitch length. When I have a very small area to remove the paper from I moisten in slightly and then brush it off with a piece of terry cloth. I use a thin paper for my foundation.
Wendy Boyes :
You must use a 1 - 1.5 stitch length on you machine. You will find then that the paper pulls away easily.

Maria - PA :
Paper designed for this might work better, but I'm too cheap. I use typing paper. You must shorten your stitch length, stitch a couple of stitches before and after your stitching line. I fold be fore tearing and also run a blunt point over the seam, like the tip of a seam ripper, before tearing. I pull out the little leftover nibs with tweezers.
Vallerie :
Before tearing fold along the seam, also try using a smaller stitch length and you should get a better result and no pulling of the stitches.
Sue Maddox :
Use a bigger needle (14), translucent paper (available at paper supply stores, and smaller stiches.
Shelley :
One answer for the problem: try folding the paper at the stitch line, then finger press it, then open it and tear gently. It should tear easily.
One suggestion: try a very sheer underfacing (like you would use for dressmaking)to do the paperpiecing on instead of paper. It can offer several advantages. It can be seen through, so it's easier to place the fabric exactly where you want it before you sew. It doesn't tear as easily if you make a mistake and have to take out the stitching. It can offer some support to the project, and may be advantageous to leave it on the piece when it's done. It's easy to hand quilt through if you do opt to leave it on.
Ann K :
I've done several paper-pieced projects, and here's what works best for me:
1. Shorten your stitch length to approx. 1.5. The close stitches will allow the needle to perforate the paper.
2. Use a sharp needle, and change the needle more often than you usually would (paper dulls it).
3. Use a lighter-weight paper, such as typing paper, tracing paper, or foundation paper (I purchased this for approx. $6 from the Clotilde catalog)
4. Before removing the paper, fold it along the perforations (like how you would tear a stamp from a roll). If need be, carefully run a seam ripper along the paper (but not through the paper or thread) to slit the paper.
5. Don't PULL the paper off - it will distort your block.
6. You might find it helpful to use a finer-weight thread, such as machine embroidery thread, rather than the standard 50/3 piecing/quilting thread. This reduces bulk in the seams, helpful when you have a lot of little pieces in a little block.

I've never heard of the "soaking" method listed below; I'd be concerned that my fabric might fray and my pieced units would stretch out of shape unless I spent a lot of time blocking each unit. Also, if you photocopied the paper-piecing pattern, the photocopy toner could stain light-colored fabrics.


Rhonda L Taylor :
I've been copying my pattern onto lite interfacing(sew in) then it makes a nice foundation, and you don't have to tear it away, it can stay on the block.
Kathy :
If you use a very small stitch and start your stitching a few stitches before the line begins, you should not have your stitches pull out when you remove the paper.
Elena :
I have never been a fan of paper peicing, so this tip does not come from personel experience. In my books, one author recommends to soak the project before removing the paper. I imagine that it would weaken the structual integrity of the paper making it easier to pull out, without damaging your project. Make sure your colors won't bleed before you do this, of course!

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