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Question of the Week

Question for the week of September 21, 1998:

Our question this week comes from Barbara Sliter

I'm using applique for the first time and need help applique-ing sharp points. Mine are a mess. How do you clip? How much fabric should be turned under, where?

chargrove@webtv.net :


If you are sewing up the right hand side
of the point - sew within a thread or
two of your outline (template marking).
Stop and clip about 1/16 - 1/8th inch
from the left side of the point - do not
clip past the outline mark. Take your
needle at the top of the point and turn
your fabric under making a point. Take
one tacking stitch at the top of the
point - pulling the thread away from the
point - continuing sewing down the left
side of the point. Cut out some
5-pointed stars and applique them for
practice - the more you do, the better
your points will be.

carol :
For sharp corners, I clip a little v out of corner. But be careful not to clip thru the edge, only up to it.
carolea@nebi.com :
Applique to the end of the marked line or the point, insert needle into seam allowance and turn needle (sweep motion),placing needle under applique area. Tug on needle to bring out corner to sharp point and then continue down the other side. Needleturn appliquer.
Lillie Coville :
about 1/8 to 1/4
Anthony narrowly escaping Hurricane Georges in Florida :
Barbara, I assume you're talking about the needleturn method. If so, cut about 1/8" along one side only and sew all the way to the point along one side. Then cut 1/8" up the other side. I then do a two stage turn. First, I a turn perpendicular to the point to squate the edge off and stitch again directly on the point. Noy slide my scissor underneath the applique and trim some of the turned bulk away. Now I can flip the remeining side under and stitch up the other side. I hope this helps. Wish I could show you. It is easier to do than explain how to do it. Dee Anderson, a wonderful teacher, patiently taught me this method.
Shirley Colmenero :
I'm no expert, but when I applique I use a light weight fabric like pellon and sew it right sides together. Slit the back of the pellon and turn right side out. On sharp edges clip close to the seam. Home this helps
quilt queen :
turn it under 1/4 of an inch all the way around

clip curves

cheryl :
the freezer paper technique
Anita :
1/8 to1/4 inch and use English needles. Like butter.
bobbie c. :
When you get to where you want to turn,
take a tiny extra stitch. Put your
needle in the fabric away from the
corner,(inside your applique area) and
out into the seam allowance. Hold the
threaded end of the needle and without
pulling the thread through the fabric,
and pivot the needle. The needle will
push the fabic under the seam allowance.
Hold the point of the applique piece with
your finger and pull out the needle, and
tug on the thread to pull out the point.
Stitch on. You don't need to clip any
extra. I turn under about 3/16".
Eirian, Penarth, Wales, UK. :
I also use freezer paper, but I find that a handy glue stick helps to keep the turned under pieces exactly where you want them (underneath!) When clipping, I often find that less clipping rather than more helps, but when I clip a very sharp inside point, I usually clip to one or two threads before the freezer paper piece. Have fun with it - don't forget that you see it a lot closer than everybody else!
Katy :
I use freezer paper to turn the edges
under. Cut the pattern out of the
freezer paper and iron it to the
wrong side. Cut it out, then turn the edges under
and press. I was told that a "short
quarter" inch was a good seam allowance.
I use about 3/16" most of the time.
Jean Taft, Humboldt, IA :
If your point is less than a 45 degree try reverse applique or turn the corner with another piece of fabic or interfacing like you would with the corner of a collar. Both techniques will produce a very different effect, the first will have the point sunk in somewhat and the latter closer to a three dimensional look. If the angle is more than 30 degrees, fold under the allowance perpendicular to the point first, then fold in each side, a straight pin through all the layers pointing in only will help hold them in place. I would hesitate to trim off any allowance that does not show since this will be the first place the piece could ravel. There is no way to avoid the extra bulk. starching your fabric first will help the holds stay until you stitch them. Practice, practice, practice. But remember you are looking at it at a distance of 12 inches, no one else will.
Helene, again :
Ooops! It seems my little answering bits have been swallowed somewhere on the Net... I was saying: but you have to be careful to leave enough fabric, so that it doesn't fray and come out from under your seam. Usually 1/8 of an inch is fine. And remember: practice will make it easier and easier. Hope this helps. Helene, in Bangkok
helene, in Bangkok :
I usually stitch to the very point. Then I press the folded fabric with the tip of my finger, then fold it under, as precisely as possible, so that it doesn't bunch or appear too thick. You can also work one stitch from the tip, proceed as described, then make a slightly deeper stitch at the very tip (the stitch will appear, but will give the point a sharper look). At first, you can try and help yourself with a toothpick, to fold the fabric as neatly as possible. The less fabric you leave, the neater it will look, but you have to be careful to leave enough, so that it doesn't come out from under your seam. Leaving 1/8" should be fine. Hope this helps, and remember: with practice you'll find it easier and easier!

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